How to winterize your lawn mower
An hour in the fall buys you a mower that starts on the first pull in spring. Here are the eight steps, in order, with what each one actually prevents — plus the supplies worth having on the bench before you start.
When to do it
Right after your last mow of the season, before the first hard freeze. If you already put it away untouched, it is still worth pulling it back out — stale fuel gets worse every week it sits.
The eight steps
Deal with the fuel first
10 minGas left sitting all winter is the single most common reason a mower won't start in spring. Ethanol pulls in moisture and gums up the carburetor. You have two good options: add fuel stabilizer to a full tank and run the engine five minutes so treated fuel reaches the carburetor, or run the tank completely dry and then run the engine until it stalls. Pick one — half a tank of untreated gas is the worst case.
Change the oil while the engine is warm
15 minUsed oil carries acids and combustion grit that eat at the engine over a long idle period. Run the mower a couple of minutes so the oil thins, shut it off, disconnect the spark plug, then drain and refill with the weight in your manual (usually SAE 30 or 10W-30). Dispose of the old oil at an auto parts store.
Remove, sharpen, and balance the blade
20 minA dull blade tears grass instead of cutting it, which browns the tips and stresses the lawn. Winter is the easiest time to do it because you're not losing a mowing weekend. Mark which side faces down before you unbolt it. Sharpen at the existing angle and check balance on a nail — an unbalanced blade shakes the whole deck apart over a season.
Replace the spark plug
5 minPlugs are a few dollars and one of the cheapest reliability upgrades there is. Swap it annually and gap it to the spec in your manual. Leave the plug wire disconnected for the rest of the work.
Clean the deck and service the air filter
15 minCaked grass under the deck holds moisture against bare metal and rusts it through. Scrape it out with a putty knife and hose it clean, then dry it fully. Paper air filters get replaced; foam filters get washed in soapy water, dried, and lightly re-oiled.
Take care of the battery
5 minOn electric-start or battery mowers, don't store at full or empty charge in a freezing shed. Bring lithium batteries indoors at roughly 40–60% charge. Lead-acid starter batteries should be disconnected and kept on a trickle charger or topped up once mid-winter.
Store it dry, level, and covered
5 minA dry garage or shed beats a tarp on the grass. Keep it level so residual oil doesn't drain into the cylinder, wipe metal surfaces with a light oil rag, and cover it to keep dust and rodents out. Never store a fueled mower next to a water heater or furnace pilot.
Set the spring reminder now
1 minThe whole point of winterizing is a mower that starts on the first warm Saturday. Put a reminder on the calendar for early spring: reconnect the plug wire, check oil level, air up the tires, and do a test start before the grass gets ahead of you.
What you'll need
Most of this is a one-time purchase that lasts several seasons. Check your model number before buying a filter or blade.
- Fuel stabilizer
- SAE 30 small-engine oil
- Oil drain pan
- Lawn mower blade sharpener
- Replacement spark plug
- Spark plug socket wrench
- Air filter (check your model)
- Mower cover
- Battery trickle charger
- Work gloves
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Four mistakes that cost real money
Leaving untreated gas in the tank
Costs a carburetor cleaning or rebuild in spring — often more than the mower is worth on older machines.
Tipping the mower the wrong way
Always tip with the air filter and carburetor side up. Tip the other way and oil floods the cylinder, so it smokes badly at the next start.
Skipping the deck clean
Wet clippings hold moisture against steel for five months. That is how a deck rusts through years early.
Storing a lithium battery at 100%
Long-term full charge in cold degrades cells. Aim for a partial charge and a temperature-stable indoor spot.
Frequently asked questions
When should I winterize my lawn mower?
After the last mow of the season, before the first hard freeze. Late October or November works for most northern climates.
Should I drain the gas or use stabilizer?
Either works if you commit to one: run the tank dry, or fill it and add fuel stabilizer, then run the engine a few minutes to circulate it. Half a tank of untreated fuel is what gums up the carburetor.
Do I need to change the oil before storage?
Yes for four-stroke engines. Used oil holds acids and moisture that pit the engine over the winter, and it is a five-minute job while the engine is still warm.
Related guides
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